Wednesday, January 29, 2014

FO: Layer Cake Plantain Tee

I'm back with my latest Plantain tee!

Layer Cake Tee Front

I am really enjoying the versatility of this pattern... just like I did with Colette's Laurel, I am planning on multiple versions.  This one is a sweater knit with poly crinkle chiffon at the hem.

Layer Cake Tee Side

Layer Cake Tee Back

I changed the hem of the tee to a high-low one, and the chiffon is just a rectangle the width of the fabric and about 8" tall.  I folded it over to create the two layers, and hemmed it by folding the edge up by about 1/2", then doing a small zigzag over the fold and trimming the excess fabric.  I'm very pleased with this method (which, fingers crossed, is holding secure so far) because it didn't interfere as much with the drape of the fabric as all of the other methods I tried.  Plus, it was relatively quick - I had no interest in spending hours hemming.  I gathered the rectangle to fit the sweater hem, basted it in, and then secured the two together while hemming with a double needle.

Layer Cake Tee Side Detail

Other than that, the only changes I made from last time were my forward shoulder adjustment (which worked, YAY), and sewing the neckline with the prescribed 5/8" SA for a narrower binding.  I still used 3/8" SAs for the rest of the tee, since this sweater knit has very little stretch and I needed the extra room.

Layer Cake Tee Detail

This shirt helps to fill the gap in my wardrobe for long sleeved items to wear with pants; with the frigid weather we've been having in NY, tights just have not been cutting it and my clothing options have shrunk considerably.  So pleased to add this to the rotation!

Fabric: Sweater knit from (now closed?) Jem Fabrics Warehouse, & poly crinkle chiffon from
Pattern: Plantain t-shirt from Deer and Doe
Modifications: High-low hem and chiffon ruffle

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

FO: A Plantain Tee

When I saw Deer & Doe's new Plantain tee pattern, I knew it would make a great basic.  Plus it's free!

Plantain Tee Front
Ugh... iPhone photos. :(
I made up this top as a muslin.  The fabric has been sitting on my shelf for quite a while, one of those prints that I loved online but felt less pleased with in-person.  It's actually been surprising that I've found myself reaching for it this week, which I think is a good sign for my relationship with this pattern.

Plantain Tee Collage

This is a size 36, sewn with 3/8" seams rather than the 5/8" called for.  I prefer 3/8" on knits, and I was between sizes so this gave me the extra room I needed.  I do wish the sleeves were a little bit more fitted, so I think I'll try either altering the pattern to fit the sleeves from my beloved Jalie 2921, or sewing with the intended 5/8" SA for a closer fit.  I also definitely need a forward shoulder adjustment on this... the shoulder seam moves back a good 1/2-3/4" while I'm wearing it.

As for future versions, I'm definitely making one with this fox print from Girl Charlee:

I've also got a sweater knit & chiffon combo idea, and a white tee with some fabric paint embellishment.  Anyone else making a Plantain?

Fabric: Rayon/poly knit (I think) from
Pattern: Plantain t-shirt from Deer & Doe
Mods: 3/8" SA

Thursday, January 9, 2014

FO: Lady Lumberjack Archer

Archer #2! (#1 here.)

Lady Lumberjack Archer 3

I'm pretty pleased with this one, though style-wise it's pretty different from what I usually wear.  I started this right after Christmas, and just could not get myself to go to the store to buy matching thread and enough matching buttons.  The cut out pieces lay neglected until I finally ventured out over the weekend to the closest store to me that stocks thread.  The 25 minute walk took about 45 minutes because people in my neighborhood seem to have decided not to shovel their sidewalks or put down salt.  I may as well have put on some ice skates and skated over.  Next time.

Lady Lumberjack Archer 5

Anyway, armed with matching thread and buttons, I sewed this up yesterday.  Other than a broken needle when I was trying to topstitch through a bazillion layers of flannel and a small error due to overzealous seam allowance trimming, it went together without a hitch.  I put the collar together per Andrea's tutorial, though I think Jen's method also works well.  I seem to get better top stitching results with Jen's instructions, and better button placket/collar stand alignment with Andrea's.  I also did faux flat felled seams on the armscye and side seams.

Lady Lumberjack Archer 6

The only other construction change I made was to form the hem of the button placket by folding the placket to the shirt right sides together first, sewing across the bottom at the hemline, turning right side out, and then folding the rest of the hem up as usual.  It's a little tricky to explain, but it's very similar to Tasia's tutorial here for the Minoru jacket.  I prefer this method because I think it reduces bulk at the CF hem, and everything lays nice and flat.

Lady Lumberjack Archer 2

I cut this in a 2, one size down from last time.  There is still plenty of ease, which I don't mind for a comfy, casual shirt.  Next time I may try folding out the pleat at the CB and adding a couple of fish eye darts for a more fitted version.  I also lengthened it by 1.5", since I wanted to wear this with my fake pants - essentially glorified ponte knit leggings, so I feel more comfortable in them when my butt is covered.

Lady Lumberjack Archer 4

My only regret is not cutting the cuffs on the bias, to match the button placket and yoke.  Oh well.  This shirt will serve me well during this particularly cold winter we've been having.  Unfortunately the fabric is sometimes too warm for my overheated NYC apartment, but at least outside I will be nice and toasty.

Lady Lumberjack Archer 1

Fabric: Plaid cotton flannel from Fabric Mart
Pattern: Grainline Archer
Size: 2, lengthened by 1.5"
Mods: Bias-cut placket and yoke.

Anyone else making anything cozy to see you through the winter?